Roof Coating

Well its time to re-coat my roof.

What does everyone recommend for Rocky Point? Has any tried Elastek products? I'm doing all the work myself and plan to bring the materials from Tucson.
 

lagrimas85

AKA Carnac
The elastomerics work perfect here. Both the cloth and the coating are less expensive here in Rp and just as good or better than in the states. You probably dont need the cloth if its a reroof. If you are going over asphalt there are a couple of kinds of coatings one thats needs a primer over the asphalt and one that needs no primer. We used elastomeric coatings on all the houses we built here and in Az. Im sorry I just saw Elastek and started talking about elastomerics. They are all pretty much the same. They seem to last forever and really cool the house down. Plus its so easy even my workers can do it.
 
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jerry

Guest
Well its time to re-coat my roof.

What does everyone recommend for Rocky Point? Has any tried Elastek products? I'm doing all the work myself and plan to bring the materials from Tucson.
Degrease the roof,2 coats of the top line Elastek (5000 I think)...it's about 85 bucks (trade price but you can get it if you ask) at the roofing company on 16th in Tucson...Where you have standing water use the Puddle coat the day before..same with fiber and patch mix if any tears are showing.....don't put it off and start in the summer...watch for signs of rain(I once saw that happen at a golf resort north of Tucson...white water rolling off the roof...If a kid or son-in-law is helping thats never used the stuff make sure they wear old clothes and shoes ..gloves... If it's really sunny out i like to stare at the sea of bright white when finished then look up real fast.....the world looks really colorful in a 60's trippy way
 

Terry C

Guest
What about using elastomeric on the beach side of a house? Does it need to be sand blasted down to the block? That side of the house paint fails offten.
 
How about a remedy for exposed a/c ductwork on the roof? The builder wrapped it with insulation and and then some type of mummy wrapping which has cracked quite a bit over the years. I'm looking for the spray applied encapsulating product. Thanks
 

jerry

Guest
There are two type of stucco, breathable and not. The first is stucco applied over chicken wire. The second involves styrofoam and built in venting. Similar to drivit. I'm thinking this has an effect on whether or not I'd use elastomeric paint(not roof coating!!!!). I'd use it on the non-breathing type, but most are just the regular stucco. Terry you might just etch it real good and use Dunn Edwards best latex primer and paint.They also have a sealer you could put over that. It's all a pain...How close are you to the water? The reflectant paint might be something to think about too...it gets a little hot in our corner of the world.
http://www.ecoprocote.com/EnerG-H-R-Heat-Reflective-Paint-s/144.htm

What about using elastomeric on the beach side of a house? Does it need to be sand blasted down to the block? That side of the house paint fails offten.
 

jerry

Guest
How about a remedy for exposed a/c ductwork on the roof? The builder wrapped it with insulation and and then some type of mummy wrapping which has cracked quite a bit over the years. I'm looking for the spray applied encapsulating product. Thanks

Using elastek type coating on metal duct would be the easiest option...tear that insulation off and put a few coats on. Tests on rooftop AC units and ductwork has dropped the air temperature coming into homes and businesses from 5 to 25 degrees. If this drops the temperature coming into the building by 10 degrees, its like still getting your 74 degree comfort level but only paying for the electricity it takes if you set your thermostat at 84 degrees.
 

Terry C

Guest
jerry, we are right on the beach in Playa Encanto. Salt takes a toll on that side of the house. The sides and street side hold up well. I keep it washed down as much a possible. It just peals the top coat of paint off after 2-3 years and there the rest goes.
 

jerry

Guest
I'm trying a sealer from Dunn Edwards on my place 85 bucks for 5 gallons.....pump up sprayer to apply..
it might be a good prep coat before you paint next time as the salt might be getting you from both sides....oil based primers tend to peal off if the salt isn't cleaned off in prep
 

lagrimas85

AKA Carnac
Terry, there is also a masonry sealer called DriLOk it is sold at Home Depot. I used it on a couple of block walls in Casa Grande that were leaching rain water and the stuff worked perfectly. I goes on thick and has tiny granules in it that seals all the pores in the block and then hardens like rubberized cement I dont think anything could penetrate it. I think they can also mix colors into it. Its around a 100.00 for a five gallon pail. You also might read about EFFLORESCENCE its really important when you are sealing a block wall. Jerry mentioned it could be getting you from both sides and thats what he meant I think. My buildings in Casa Grande still leach salts thru the paint when it rains where I didnt paint with the DRILOK.
 
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azfish

Guest
How about a remedy for exposed a/c ductwork on the roof? The builder wrapped it with insulation and and then some type of mummy wrapping which has cracked quite a bit over the years. I'm looking for the spray applied encapsulating product. Thanks
I would just coat the mummy wrap with some duct sealent its for indoor and out door use it comes in a gallon bucket you have to brush on, then paint it what ever color you want. The pucky is dark gray in color. I use it all the time on the AC jobs I do, even used it on foam roofs to patch.
 

azfish

Guest
Using elastek type coating on metal duct would be the easiest option...tear that insulation off and put a few coats on. Tests on rooftop AC units and ductwork has dropped the air temperature coming into homes and businesses from 5 to 25 degrees. If this drops the temperature coming into the building by 10 degrees, its like still getting your 74 degree comfort level but only paying for the electricity it takes if you set your thermostat at 84 degrees.
I don't know what R value is on the duct right now, but in AZ code is R-8 on roof and R-6 under roof commercial jobs. Tempe is adopting a new energy code and the R values willbe going higher on both applications. I would try to utilize the wrap you have on there now.
Jerry, arnt you suppose to have a 20 degree split between the supply air coming in and the return air going back to the unit? The only way to test your temp drop is to prob the air coming out of the unit into the duct and second prob test under the roof line at least 6" below then see where your at.
 

jerry

Guest
Azfish yea I sort of overstepped my areas of knowledge a bit on that one....I just pictured a complete mess on her roof and assumed it wasn't extensive duct work.I have used reflextant coatings on my small amount of duct,metal buildings etc..and it really works.....on the temp drop I think that is the best test method but you would see the difference in your bills from year to year without a doubt...they should have allowed people to do roof coatings as part of the stimulus bill on a side note rather than throw it at the banksters.
I don't know what R value is on the duct right now, but in AZ code is R-8 on roof and R-6 under roof commercial jobs. Tempe is adopting a new energy code and the R values willbe going higher on both applications. I would try to utilize the wrap you have on there now.
Jerry, arnt you suppose to have a 20 degree split between the supply air coming in and the return air going back to the unit? The only way to test your temp drop is to prob the air coming out of the unit into the duct and second prob test under the roof line at least 6" below then see where your at.
 
Using elastek type coating on metal duct would be the easiest option...tear that insulation off and put a few coats on. Tests on rooftop AC units and ductwork has dropped the air temperature coming into homes and businesses from 5 to 25 degrees. If this drops the temperature coming into the building by 10 degrees, its like still getting your 74 degree comfort level but only paying for the electricity it takes if you set your thermostat at 84 degrees.
Thanks Jerry. I'll check it out.
 
My gosh....something usefull from Jerry......just kidding jerry....REALLY!!!

I can use the info on the duct coating. The house I'm in now has a huge duct going from the heat/air to the house.....sheet metal....absolutely no insulation....have been looking at what I can put on it to cut the losses during the summer....if I can stop the temp loss with the Elastek by 5-10 degrees...that would be fantastic. Is that sprayable...to cover hard to reach areas??? Someone mentioned that it was available in Penasco cheaper then in AZ....where? Or was that some other material?
 

lagrimas85

AKA Carnac
Joe, That stuff would easily drop the temp 5-10 degrees I would bet more. You can brush it or roll it on. Some of those elastomerics us the same ceramic beads in the mix of ingridientsthat the space shuttle uses to deflect heat on their approach to earth. They really reflect the heat.
 
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azfish

Guest
If your going to fix it why not fix it right the first time and spend a little more money and insulate it with the proper R-value and then cover it with an aluminum shell wrap that is water and UV protected.
 
Someone mentioned that it was available in Penasco cheaper then in AZ....where? Or was that some other material?
I am able to get Elastek Solor Extreme from ABC Building Supply in Tucson for $79 for a 5 gallon bucket. What is the price in Rocky Point and where can you buy it? I rather buy it in RP then haul it from Tucson.
 
If your going to fix it why not fix it right the first time and spend a little more money and insulate it with the proper R-value and then cover it with an aluminum shell wrap that is water and UV protected.
The configuration of the duct itself does not lend itself to do this....
 
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